Frequently Asked Questions

Porcelain, ceramic, natural stone (marble, travertine, slate, limestone), large-format rectified slabs, cement and encaustic tile, and glass mosaic. Each material has different cutting requirements, adhesive compatibility, and grout joint tolerances. Porcelain rectified tile, for example, can be set with joints as narrow as 1/16 inch because its edges are precision-ground. Cement tile needs a sealer applied before grouting to prevent staining. We tell you what your material requires before we start.

There is no single answer, but proportionality matters. A 24x24 tile in a 40 sq ft bathroom will have very few grout lines, which some people prefer. A 4x4 or 2x2 mosaic gives you more texture and grip, which is practical on a wet floor. Larger tiles also require a flatter substrate — any variation in the subfloor becomes more visible with a large tile because the tile cannot flex to follow it. We factor in your room dimensions and substrate condition when we recommend sizes.

Yes, in most cases. Marble and travertine are porous and will absorb acidic liquids like lemon juice, vinegar, and some cleaning products. They need to be sealed on installation and resealed periodically. Porcelain is essentially non-porous and requires very little maintenance beyond routine cleaning. If you want the look of marble without the upkeep, large-format porcelain with a marble-look surface is a practical alternative that we install regularly in South Bay homes.

Preparation depends on what we find. On a wood subfloor, we check for deflection with a level and a flex test, then typically install cement backer board over the subfloor if it is not already there. On a concrete slab, we grind down high spots and fill low spots with a self-leveling compound to achieve a flat plane within 1/8 inch over 10 feet — the industry standard for large-format tile. In wet areas, we apply a waterproofing membrane over the substrate before any tile is set. Skipping these steps is why tile fails. We do not skip them.

Sanded grout contains fine sand aggregate and is used for joints wider than 1/8 inch. The sand gives it structural integrity so it does not crack or shrink in wider joints. Unsanded grout is smoother and used for narrow joints — typically 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Using unsanded grout in a wide joint will result in shrinkage and cracking over time. Using sanded grout on polished marble can scratch the surface. Matching grout type to joint width and tile material is not optional — it affects how long the installation lasts.

Sometimes. The existing tile needs to be firmly bonded — no hollow spots, no cracked tiles, no movement. The surface needs to be scuffed or abraded so the new thinset can bond properly. You also need to account for the added thickness, which can create transitions at doorways and may affect toilet flanges or drain heights in a bathroom. When the existing tile is well-bonded and the substrate is sound, tiling over it saves demo time. When the existing tile is questionable, demo is the right call. We check before we recommend either way.

Thinset adhesive typically needs 24 hours before light foot traffic and 72 hours before full use. Grout needs 24-72 hours to cure depending on the product and conditions. In Southern California's dry climate, curing can be faster, but we do not recommend rushing it. For shower floors and walls, we recommend waiting a full 72 hours after grouting before running water. We tell you the specific wait times for your project based on the products we use.

Either way works. Some clients come to us with tile already purchased; others want us to source it. If you are buying your own tile, we give you a square footage number plus a waste factor — typically 10-15% for straight lays and up to 20% for diagonal or herringbone patterns. Buying too little and running out mid-project is a real problem, especially if the tile is a short run or gets discontinued. We would rather you have extra than run short.

Yes. Demo waste, old tile, backer board scraps, and thinset debris are part of the job. We bag and haul it out. We do not leave a pile in your driveway. If there is an unusually large volume of demo material, we will note that in the estimate so you know what to expect.